A Traveler's Journey to Marrakech:
Sipping Coffee, Riding Camels, and Dining Under the Desert Stars
Medina of Marrakech
As a gay man who loves to travel, I’ve always sought out destinations that offer a mix of adventure, culture, and a bit of the unexpected. Marrakech, a city that has long been on my bucket list, promised all this and more. When I finally had the chance to visit, I discovered a city of contrasts — one where the ancient and modern collide, where tradition meets innovation, and where every corner holds a new story. My journey through Marrakech was filled with vibrant souks, intimate coffee shops, unforgettable camel rides, and a magical dinner in the desert under a blanket of stars. Here’s my personal account of exploring this enchanting city, and why Marrakech should be on every gay traveller’s radar
Arrival in Marrakech: A Sensory Overload
Stepping off the plane in Marrakech was like stepping into a different world. The warm desert air immediately wrapped around me, carrying with it a mix of exotic scents: spices, incense, and a hint of something floral. The city's energy was palpable from the moment I arrived, with bustling crowds, vibrant colours, and an eclectic mix of sounds. It was a sensory overload in the best possible way. I had booked a stay at a traditional riad in the heart of the Medina, the old city. Riads are traditional Moroccan houses with an interior courtyard or garden, often beautifully decorated with intricate tile-work and lush greenery. Staying in a riad was an experience in itself — a peaceful oasis amidst the chaos of the city, where I could retreat after a day of exploration and soak up the authentic Moroccan ambiance.
Exploring the Medina: A Maze of Wonder
My first day in Marrakech was spent wandering through the Medina, a maze-like network of narrow alleys and bustling souks (markets). The Medina is the historic heart of the city, a UNESCO World Heritage site filled with centuries-old buildings, mosques, palaces, and traditional markets selling everything from spices and textiles to ceramics and jewellery.
As a solo gay traveller, I initially felt a bit apprehensive about navigating the crowded streets, especially since I knew Morocco could be conservative regarding LGBTQ+ issues. However, I quickly realised that Marrakech, being a popular tourist destination, was relatively welcoming and that as long as I respected local customs and dressed modestly, I felt safe exploring on my own.
The souks were an experience like no other. Every turn revealed a new discovery — a stall selling handwoven carpets, a shop filled with glittering lanterns, an artisan hammering away at a brass teapot. The vendors, eager to make a sale, called out in a mix of Arabic, French, and English, inviting me to come and see their wares. Haggling was part of the fun, and I found myself getting caught up in the excitement of bargaining for a beautiful leather bag and a colourful Berber rug.
Finding Hidden Coffee Shops: A Coffee Lover’s Paradise
After a few hours of wandering the Medina, I was ready for a break. One of my favourite things to do when traveling is to find local coffee shops where I can sit, relax, and soak in the atmosphere. In Marrakech, I discovered that coffee culture is alive and well, with plenty of charming cafes offering everything from traditional Moroccan mint tea to rich, flavourful coffee.
My first stop was Café des Épices, a popular spot located in the heart of the Medina. Perched on a rooftop overlooking the bustling market below, it offered a perfect escape from the crowds. I ordered a Moroccan spiced coffee, a fragrant blend of coffee, cinnamon, cardamom, and nutmeg, served with a generous dollop of cream. As I sipped my coffee, I watched the world go by — vendors hawking their goods, tourists snapping photos, and locals going about their daily routines. It was the perfect place to sit back and observe the vibrant tapestry of life in Marrakech.
Over the next few days, I made it my mission to find more hidden coffee gems around the city. One of my favourite discoveries was Atay Café, a cozy spot tucked away in a quiet corner of the Medina. With its colourful décor, friendly staff, and laid-back vibe, it quickly became my go-to spot for a mid-afternoon coffee break. I loved sitting on the rooftop terrace, sipping a creamy café au lait and taking in the stunning views of the city’s rooftops and distant Atlas Mountains.
Another standout was Nomad, a chic café and restaurant with a modern Moroccan twist. Located near the spice market, it offered a stylish setting with delicious food and drinks. I treated myself to a decadent slice of chocolate cake and a strong espresso while admiring the beautiful mix of traditional and contemporary design. It was places like these that made me fall in love with Marrakech — a city where old and new coexist in perfect harmony.
A Camel Ride in the Agafay Desert: Adventure Awaits
No trip to Morocco would be complete without a camel ride, and I was eager to experience this quintessential desert adventure. While the Sahara Desert is the most famous, it’s a bit of a trek from Marrakech, so I opted for a camel ride in the Agafay Desert, a stony desert located just an hour outside the city.
The journey began with a drive through the stunning Moroccan countryside, passing by olive groves, small villages, and vast open fields. As we neared the desert, the landscape changed dramatically — the flat plains gave way to rolling hills and rocky outcrops, with the snow-capped Atlas Mountains looming in the distance.
Upon arrival, I was greeted by my camel guide, a friendly Berber man named Hassan, who helped me mount my camel — a gentle giant named Zafar. As someone who had never ridden a camel before, I was a bit nervous, but Hassan’s calm demeanour and the camel’s steady gait quickly put me at ease. We set off into the desert, the camels plodding along at a leisurely pace, swaying gently with each step.
The Agafay Desert may not have the towering dunes of the Sahara, but it has its own unique charm. The landscape was stark yet beautiful, with rocky hills, dry riverbeds, and sparse vegetation. As we rode deeper into the desert, the only sounds were the soft crunch of the camels’ feet on the gravel and the occasional call of a distant bird. It was incredibly peaceful, and I found myself completely immersed in the moment, soaking up the vastness and serenity of the desert.
There was something magical about being in the middle of the desert, far from the hustle and bustle of the city, with nothing but the endless expanse of the landscape stretching out before me.
Dinner in the Desert: A Night to Remember
As the sun began to set, we made our way to our dinner location — a secluded spot in the desert, where a group of Berber tents had been set up for a private dinner under the stars. The setting was straight out of a fairy tale, with soft lanterns casting a warm glow over the tables, and the scent of grilled meats and spices wafting through the air.
I was joined by a small group of fellow travellers, and we were welcomed with open arms by our hosts, who treated us to a feast of traditional Moroccan dishes. There was a generous spread of salads, tagines, couscous, and freshly baked bread, all bursting with flavour and spice. We ate with our hands, as is the custom, sharing stories and laughter over the delicious meal.
As we dined, a group of local musicians began to play traditional Berber music, filling the night air with the rhythmic beat of drums and the haunting melody of the oud. The music was intoxicating, and before long, we were all up and dancing around the fire, our inhibitions melting away under the starry sky.
The night was filled with magic — the desert landscape bathed in the soft glow of the moon, the sound of music and laughter echoing in the stillness, and the sense of camaraderie among strangers brought together by a shared love of adventure. It was one of those rare moments where everything felt perfect, and I knew it was an experience I would cherish forever.
Navigating Marrakech as a Gay Traveller
As a gay traveller, I was initially unsure of what to expect in Marrakech, a city in a country where LGBTQ+ rights are limited and homosexuality is not widely accepted. However, I found that as long as I was respectful of local customs and norms, I was able to enjoy my time in Marrakech without any issues. While public displays of affection are not advisable, I found the locals to be friendly and welcoming, and I never felt unsafe during my stay. It's worth noting that Marrakech, as a popular tourist destination, is relatively progressive compared to other parts of Morocco, and many hotels, riads, and tour operators are accustomed to hosting LGBTQ+ travellers.
For those planning a trip to Marrakech, I would recommend doing a bit of research beforehand and being mindful of the cultural context. While it's important to be aware of the challenges, it's equally important to remember that travel is about connecting with new people and experiences, and Marrakech has so much to offer in that regard.
The Allure of Marrakech: A City of Contrasts
My journey through Marrakech was a whirlwind of sights, sounds, and sensations — a sensory overload that left me exhilarated and exhausted in equal measure. From the bustling souks and hidden coffee shops to the serene desert landscapes and unforgettable camel ride, every moment was filled with discovery and adventure.
But what struck me most about Marrakech was its ability to surprise and delight at every turn. It’s a city of contrasts, where ancient traditions coexist with modern innovations, where the past and present blend seamlessly, and where every corner holds a new story waiting to be told.
For gay travellers, Marrakech offers a unique and enriching experience — one that challenges perceptions, broadens horizons, and celebrates the beauty of diversity. It’s a city that invites you to step out of your comfort zone, to explore, to connect, and to embrace the unexpected.
As I boarded my flight back home, I couldn’t help but feel a pang of longing for the city I had come to love in such a short time. Marrakech had left an indelible mark on my heart, and I knew it wouldn’t be long before I returned to explore its many wonders once again.
Tips for Gay Travellers Visiting Marrakech
Research and Plan Ahead: Before your trip, take the time to research Marrakech and familiarise yourself with local customs and cultural norms. Understanding the cultural context will help you navigate the city with confidence and respect.
Choose LGBTQ+-Friendly Accommodations: Many riads, hotels, and guesthouses in Marrakech are welcoming to LGBTQ+ travellers. Look for accommodations that have positive reviews from other LGBTQ+ guests, and don’t hesitate to ask questions when booking to ensure a comfortable stay.
Be Mindful of Public Displays of Affection: While Marrakech is relatively progressive, public displays of affection (PDA) are generally frowned upon, regardless of sexual orientation. It's best to avoid PDA in public spaces to ensure a respectful experience.
Connect with Other LGBTQ+ Travellers: Consider joining LGBTQ+ travel groups or forums to connect with other gay travellers who have visited Marrakech. Their experiences and advice can be invaluable in helping you plan your trip and make the most of your time in the city.
Embrace the Experience: Marrakech is a city that rewards curiosity and openness. Don’t be afraid to step out of your comfort zone, try new things, and immerse yourself in the vibrant culture and history of this incredible destination.
Final Thoughts
Marrakech is a city that captivates and inspires, offering a unique blend of adventure, culture, and charm. For gay travellers, it’s a destination that challenges the status quo and invites you to see the world through a different lens. Whether you’re sipping coffee in a hidden café, riding camels in the desert, or dancing under the stars, Marrakech is a city that will leave you with memories to last a lifetime.
As I reflect on my time in Marrakech, I am reminded of the power of travel to connect us with new places, people, and perspectives. It’s a journey that goes beyond the physical — one that touches the soul and reminds us of the beauty of diversity and the importance of embracing the unknown. Marrakech, with its rich history, vibrant culture, and warm hospitality, is a testament to the magic of travel and the endless possibilities that await those who are willing to explore.
So, pack your bags, grab your sense of adventure, and set off for Marrakech. The city of contrasts awaits, ready to show you a world of wonder, one that is sure to leave you enchanted and longing for more.
Ben Maguire
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